http://www.abc.net.au/foreign/content/2004/s1199164.htm
Broadcast: 14/09/2004
Reporter: Mark Simkin

Transcript
SIMKIN: On the outskirts of Japan’s ancient capital, Kyoto stands a sacred mountain. It is here, on Mount Hiei that the marathon monks live, pray and defy death.
The monks pursue enlightenment. What they put themselves through are so utterly extraordinary, it must rate as one of the most incredible and dangerous feats of endurance. These men may be the world’s greatest athletes.
It is 1.00 am and Genshin Fujinami is preparing for what lies ahead. White is the Buddhist colour of death. He wears it as a reminder his journey will take him to the limits of life itself and quite possibly, beyond.
Fujinami’s pilgrimage is more than 80 kilometres long. The monk will traverse the route every day for the next three and a half months. He’ll sleep for just two hours a night, then walk for seventeen hours only stopping to utter a few secret incantations.
An Olympic marathon is 42 kilometres. On each of the next 100 days, Fujinami will cover twice that distance. Unlike a professional athlete though, the forty four year old must traverse treacherous mountain trails, often in complete darkness. There are no high-tech supplements to keep him going, just a daily rice ball and a bowl of noodles.
FUJINAMI: The tough thing is to continue the training for one hundred days. If I was training for a marathon, I’d be able to rest at certain times. Without rest, an athlete cannot advance to the next step.
SIMKIN: The monk is approaching the conclusion of the “Kaihogyo”, seven years of tests and trials. By the end of it, if he survives, he will become a living saint.
Fujinami writes of a need to worship from the bottom of his heart. He once worked as a salary man, an office worker, but couldn’t find fulfilment. Eleven years ago he came to Mt Hiei, cutting his hair and all ties with his family, so he could join the marathon monks.
FUJINAMI: When I was a salary man, my life was passive. I was told to do this and that, and that was all. Since I was a child, I’ve dreamt about doing something where I can think by myself and there are many things in the monk’s world where I have to think for myself.
SIMKIN: The marathons monks are Buddhists from the Tendai sect. Their rules are strict, their lifestyle austere. The order has been conducting the Kaihogyo for more than one thousand years.
FUJINAMI: The purpose of the marathon is not to walk per se. We visit places of worship and we go there on foot. Then we go to another object of worship. It is like a pilgrimage.
SIMKIN: This man knows more about the marathon monks than any outsider. John Stevens is an expert in the art of aikido and an authority in the more gentle art of Buddhism. The professor studied at Mt Hiei and wrote a book about its special inhabitants.
JOHN STEVENS: I think even in, you know Australia the Aborigines have the same sort of practice that they will wander and they can feel where, I have to go to this place, the dreamtime?
SIMKIN: That’s right, “walkabout”.
JOHN STEVENS: Walkabout and this is the Japanese walkabout, the marathon monks.
SIMKIN: In all, Fujinami must spend 1000 days on the road in all seasons, in all conditions. The Kaihogyo allows Fujinami to commune with mother nature and discover his own inner nature. He is one of the slower marathon monks but appearances can be deceiving.
JOHN STEVENS: They walk it seems but if you’re next to them, they are really moving fast. I’ve known there’s been marathon runners who try to train with them, they can’t last than more than a week. They blow out then they poop out. They just have no energy left. They can’t, they can’t follow the course. They can keep up with them, the pace, but they can’t do it you know continuously. A week is the maximum.
SIMKIN; The road to enlightenment is strewn with jagged rocks, poisonous snakes and uneven ground. And yet it is traversed with hand-made straw sandals that offer little protection.
Fujinami goes through at least two, sometimes five pairs a day. His feet are left blistered, bruised and broken but he cannot stop. Under his robes Fujinami carried a rope and knife. If he fails to complete his mountain march, not matter what the reason, he must immediately hang or disembowel himself.
JOHN STEVENS: This is serious. There have been people who have died in practice. Along the roadside there you will see, “this monk died during training”.
FUJINAMI: You must think positively. Thinking positively, I believe I can continue until the end. I cannot allow myself to think “what if?”.
SIMKIN: In year five, the running is interrupted by something even more dangerous and demanding – the Doiri.
It is so secret, so sacred that television cameras are not allowed but this amateur footage provides a remarkable insight into Fujinami’s ordeal. He must go nine days without any food, drink or sleep. Inside the temple, the monk sits and prays.
JOHN STEVENS: There’s two monks always on each side of them guarding them so they don’t fall over, they don’t sleep. They’re very strict about not taking the food or water but the hardest thing seems though to keep your neck straight. Most of them say that. You know keeping erect, see the desire for food and water goes away but staying awake the whole time?
SIMKIN: Fujinami is only allowed to get up once every twenty-four hours when he fetches sacrificial water. On day one, the 200 metre trip to the well took a few minutes. Here, on day nine, the walk takes an agonising hour.
That he can walk at all is a miracle. According to medical theory, Fujinami should be dead. But the monk survives and emerges from his nine day fast weak but triumphant.
FUJINAMI: It became difficult to breathe the air. It was very hard, as if my internal organs were malfunctioning. Mentally I lost the capacity to think. I had expected to be able to meditate and concentrate but I lost the ability to think of anything.
SIMKIN: Different monks deal with the Doiri in different ways. This is the last man to complete the challenge – ten years ago. Gyosho Uehara is now a senior monk on Mt Hiei. He says that as the men come face to face with death, some develop a remarkable awareness of life, special powers of perception.
GYOSHO UEHARA: The Doiri is not about controlling worldly desires but denying them. This is why some marathon monks are able to hear the sound of ash falling from an incense stick or smell food being prepared at the foot of the mountain. It is as if they are visiting the world of the dead.
SIMKIN: In the final year of the Kaihogyo, as the Cherry Blossoms begin to bloom, the running monk exchanges the solitude of the mountain for the bustle of urban Kyoto. The new route takes him past geisha houses and love hotels, to the old part of town.
Fujinami visits the city’s ancient temples and shrines, stopping briefly at each. During this part of the challenge, some of the devoted walk with him. This man’s been helping the marathon monks for half a century.
PARISHIONER: I serve them because I believe they are living Gods of fire. In the old days it was an unsafe society and the parishioners wore swords. Their main duty was to guard the monk from ruffians. Now, our main duty is to control the traffic.
SIMKIN: There are other duties too. Providing food, money and a more physical kind of support, one of them pushes Fujinami along. Believers who cannot walk line the streets, begging for a blessing.
FUJINAMI; The Kaihogyo is not about the individual. It is something that is handed over, passed down from generation to generation, through oral tradition. Everything including the clothes is the same as it always was. The individual is not significant.
SIMKIN: Once a year, the marathon monks and their attendants venture deep into the mountains for a special retreat. It’s very different to the restrained, aesthetic world the men usually inhabit. The founder of the sect discovered God by jumping into a waterfall. His followers imitate the leap of faith. This is a select gathering. The Kaihogyo is so gruelling only 46 men have completed it in the last four centuries.
Of those who did and are still alive, Yusai Sakai is the undisputed champion, a national treasure and media superstar. These days he spends much of his time signing the many books that have been written about him.
During World War II, Sakai worked for Unit 731, the biological warfare unit that killed vast numbers of Chinese. When the war was lost, Sakai’s family started a noodle shop. It burnt down. He married a cousin, she committed suicide. Depressed and aimless, Sakai joined the marathon monks and began to run. He raced through one seven year challenge then, though aged in his fifties, began a second.
YUSAI SAKAI: Because I was lazy and had a good-for-nothing life, there was nothing else for me to do. Furthermore, when I was a child at school, I flunked my exams again and again. I completed the pilgrimage once but because I’d needed to do everything else in my life twice, I thought I’d better walk twice if I really wanted to achieve something.
SIMKIN: Looking at him now, it’s hard to believe how close this living God came to death. Sakai was attacked by a wild boar. His foot infected, the pain excruciating, the monk remembered that failure to complete the course requires suicide. He ensured that he would die if he passed out.
YUSAI SAKAI: After I lanced the wound, I propped the knife under my stomach like this. But fate intervened did it not? I do not know how or why but I survived.
SIMKIN: At age 61, Sakai completed his 2000th day on the road. Soon after, he was back on the track, revealing the mountain’s secrets to a new monk. The novice’s name was Genshin Fujinami, the man now undertaking a Kaihogyo of his own. Sakai is his master, responsible for guiding him through the seven year challenge.
YUSAI SAKAI: The message I wish to convey is please live each day as if it is your entire life. If you start something today, finish it today. Tomorrow is another world. Live life positively.
SIMKIN: It’s a message his disciple has taken to heart. Today, 1000 days and more than 46,000 kilometres after he began, the end is in sight. Fujinami has travelled far enough to have circled the globe. It’s an historic occasion. The journalists and disciples have come from across the country to witness it. The believers receive a final blessing and then, almost anti-climatically, it is all over.
FUJINAMI: I feel that I have accomplished a job. That is all. I do now know whether I should call it “enlightenment” or not but the training has taught me that everyone and everything is equal. Everything that is alive is equal. A human being is not special. There are no special things.
SIMKIN: The celebrations are held in Kyoto at the ancient Imperial Palace. Eight hundred people, including Fujinami’s master, Sakai, and the head monk, Uehara have come to pay their respects. Fujinami is now a national celebrity, an inspiration to Japanese workers.
JOHN STEVENS: The inspiration that if you train, no matter what it is, you can accomplish this and the whole idea is to bring out your inner nature, your Buddha nature. It’s realising your potential.
SIMKIN: Fujinami is a powerful symbol, embodying the determination and discipline that turned a war-ravaged nation into an industrial superpower.
PARISHIONER: The marathon monks who risk their lives by undergoing their training, sweep away our feelings of laziness. When I think about them, I am inspired.
SIMKIN: But fewer and fewer people are inspired enough to join or support the marathon monks. Fujinami believes young, modern Japanese have little interest in religion, sacrifice and tradition.
FUJINAMI: Japanese culture is gradually dying. I deeply regret the way Japanese people are embracing anything new and are not making much of the old things.
SIMKIN: And so, amid the celebrations, there are hints of uncertainty. The monks have a wonderful history but they wonder and worry about their place in Japan’s future. Who will be next to walk in Fujinami’s shoes, to follow in his footsteps.
http://www.millennium-tv.com/Monks.htm
http://www.runpunxsyrun.org/marathonmonks.html
Japan’s athlete monks run up to two marathons a day for 100 days on their path of enlightenment
James Davis
Sunday April 22, 2001
The London Observer
Some of the world’s best athletes will give a very good run for their money in today’s London Marathon, others will just pick up their appearance fee and potter round without threatening to win. The world’s top distance runners are well rewarded – the best earn one million dollars a year – and they reckon to run only two or three marathons a year.
What a comparison that is to a group of men who can claim – though they never do – to be the greatest, toughest, most committed athletes in the world. They run for no other reward than spiritual enlightenment, hoping to help themselves along the path of Buddha towards a personal awakening. They are the so-called ‘marathon monks’ of Mount Hiei, Japan.
The monks, known as Kaihigyo, are spiritual athletes from the Tendai Sect of Buddhism, based at Mount Hiei, which overlooks the ancient capital city of Kyoto.
The ultimate achievement is the completion of the 1,000-day challenge, which must surely be the most demanding physical and mental challenge in the world. Forget ultra-marathons and so-called iron-man events, this endurance challenge surpasses all others.
Only 46 men have completed the 1,000-day challenge since 1885. It takes seven years to complete, as the monks must undergo other Buddhist training in meditation and calligraphy, and perform general duties within the temple.
The first 300 days are basic training, during which the monks run 40km per day for 100 consecutive days. In the fourth and fifth years they run 40km each day for 200 consecutive days. That’s more or less a full marathon every day for more than six months.
The final two years of the 1000-day challenge are even more daunting. In the sixth year they run 60km each day for 100 consecutive days and in the seventh year they run 84km each day for 100 consecutive days. This is the equivalent of running two Olympic marathons back-to-back every day for 100 days.
Author John Stevens, in his book, The Marathon Monks of Mount Hiei describes the running style which dates back over a thousand years. ‘Eyes focused about 100 feet ahead while moving in a steady rhythm, keeping the head level, the shoulders relaxed, the back straight, and the nose aligned with the navel.’
What makes all these distances even more amazing is the manner and the conditions in which the monks run. These runs are usually begun at night and are over mountain paths that are uneven and poorly marked. During the winter months the low temperatures and snow are a great hindrance to the runners. These monks do not wear the latest in footwear and clothing, but run in straw sandals, an all-white outfit and a straw hat. They also run on a diet of vegetables, tofu and miso soup, which modern athletes and nutritionists would deem to be unsuitable for endurance events.
Not only do they wear clothes and shoes unsuited to running, but they have to carry books with directions and mantras to chant, food to offer along the way, candles for illumination, as well as a sheathed knife and a rope, known as the ‘cord of death’. These remind the monk of his duty to take his life if he fails, by hanging or self-disembowelment. The course is littered with unmarked graves, marking the spot where monks have taken their own lives. However, there have been no cases of monks’ suicides since the nineteenth century.
During theses long runs the monks must make stops at temples of worship that can number up to 260. This means that the 86km run can take up to 20 hours to complete leaving the monk with very little time for recovery or rest, but as an old saying goes: ‘Ten minutes’ sleep for a marathon monk is worth five hours of ordinary rest.’ They also learn to rest sections of their body while running, such as their arms or shoulders.
And then there is the doiri, where the monk faces seven days without food, water or sleep or rest. During this time the monk will spend his entire day reciting Buddhist chants and mantras – perhaps up to 100,000 each day. The only time the monk will leave the temple is at 2am to walk the 200m to a well and return with water to make an offering. He is not allowed to drink any himself and the 200m walk can take up to two hours in the final days of the fast. During his time spent meditating there are two monks who are in constant attention to ensure that he does not fall asleep.
For several weeks before doiri, the monk will reduce his food intake so his body can cope with the fast. The first day is no problem, but there is some nausea on the second and third days. By the fourth and fifth days the hunger pangs have disappeared, but the monk has become so dehydrated that there is no saliva in his mouth and he will begin to taste blood.
The purpose of doiri is to bring the monk face-to-face with death. During this fast, the monks develop extraordinary powers of sense. They talk of being able to hear the ashes of incense sticks fall to the ground and, perhaps unsurprisingly, of the ability to smell food being prepared miles away.
Physiologists, who have examined the monks after conclusion of the rite, find many of the symptoms of a ‘dead person’. Monks talk of experiencing a feeling of transparency where everything good, bad and neutral leaves their body and existence in itself is revealed in crystal clarity. Relatives of those who undergo this rite of passage talk of the difference that the seven days makes to those who undergo it. One remarked, ‘I always dismissed Buddhism as superstitious nonsense until I saw my brother step out of Myo-o-do [the name of the temple] after doiri. He was really a living Buddha.’
When the Japanese Emperor maintained his court in Kyoto, the monks were afforded a special thanksgiving service in the Imperial Palace after completing their 1,000-day term and the ‘marathon monks’ were the only people who were allowed to wear footwear in the presence of the Emperor.
Even today thousands will turn out to watch a monk nearing completion of a 1,000-day term, as he runs the old course that now passes through Kyoto’s shopping streets and the entertainment district, complete with its bars, restaurants and strip joints. Many turn up hoping to be blessed by these special monks whom they believe have powers to heal.
Japan has the largest number of marathon runners per capita in the world. From the Arctic northern island of Hokkaido to the balmy tropical islands of Okinawa in the Pacific, each and every town will organise a number of long-distance runs and each school will have a strong running club.
There is even a corporate-sponsored running league, whose teams are even allowed to have one foreigner in their team. Jeff Schiebler, a Canadian Olympic runner, is the only non-African foreigner who competes. He described what it is like to run in Japan. ‘It is totally different from anything in North America. They have multimillion-dollar contracts, team chefs, great training facilities. That kind of thing makes Japan a power in long-distance running. They go mad for road races. Kids there grow up wanting to be the next marathon champ.’
Japan’s love of marathon running was epitomised with the incredible outpouring of emotion that followed Naoko Takahashi’s victory in the women’s Olympic marathon in Sydney last year. The race and the prize-giving attracted a massive 84 per cent TV rating as the fresh-faced girl from the mountains of Gifu became the first Japanese woman to win an Olympic gold medal.
She became an overnight superstar and her face was splashed across newspapers, magazines and on talk shows. She even received The People’s Honour (only the third woman ever to do so) from the then prime minister Yoshiro Mori, who said: ‘You have given inspiration and encouragement to youngsters as well as a whole people by crossing the finish line with a refreshing smile.’
Very few runners will cross the finish line in London today with a ‘refreshing smile’ after 26 hard miles. Grimaces of exhaustion and relief will be a more common sight. However, after looking back at the 26 miles and a bit, there will be a feeling of great personal pride and achievement in their performance. Many will have achieved personal best times and others will have raised hundreds of pounds for charity. But will many of them be able to say they have gained something spiritually, as with the ‘marathon monks’ of Japan?
http://www.multidays.com/html/articles/marathonmonks.htm
http://www.trailrunnermag.com/features/feature%2019.html
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m1141/is_44_41/ai_n15979361